Kirkby Lonsdale
In January 1875 Ruskin visited the village of Kirkby Lonsdale, Cumbria (although at that time it was in Westmoreland). On a short walk from the village centre he saw the view of the River Lune and stated that
The valley of the Lune at Kirkby is one of the loveliest
scenes in England—therefore, in the world. Whatever moorland hill, and sweet river, and English forest foliage can be at their best, is gathered there; and chiefly seen from the steep bank which falls to the stream side from the upper part of the town itself. There, a path leads from the churchyard out of which Turner made his drawing of the valley [see below],1 along the brow of the wooded bank, to open downs beyond; a little bye footpath on the right descending steeply through the woods to a spring among the rocks of the shore. I do not know in all my own country, still less in France or Italy, a place more naturally divine, or a more priceless possession of true “Holy Land.”
[Wks. 28. 298-299]
The footpath Ruskin describes is still there and runs through the churchyard where you can also find a former garden gazebo. Just next to the gazebo, steps lead down to the river (Ruskin's 'bye path'). These are known as the Radical Steps.
Ruskin also mentioned the parish church on his visit, in his usual critical terms -
Now, not a hundred paces from these seats there is a fine old church, with Norman door, and lancet east windows, and so on; and this, of course, has been duly patched, botched, plastered, and primmed up; and is kept as tidy as a new pin. For your English clergyman keeps his own stage properties, nowadays, as carefully as a poor actress her silk stockings.
[Wks 28.300]
